Scooter FAQ

(Q.) How often should i change my spark plug?
(A.) About 1500 miles. Some plugs will go bad immediately, some will last tens of thousands of miles. But you should change it on a regular schedule.

(Q.) List of equipment required to legally operate a motorcycle in NY From the DMV web site. A good thing to print out and keep in the bike in case you get pulled over.
(A.) http://www.nydmv.state.ny.us/forms/mv529b.pdf

(Q.) Do you need a NY MOTORCYCLE LICENSE to get a scoot registered, insured, titled and plated? Can you do this with just a plain old auto license?
(A.) no motorcycle license necessary - Tom G.

(Q.) Machine shops in NYC
(A.) Call up Sixth Street Specials INC, 703 East 6th st. , they can point you in the right direction, 212-979-6535 - drunknpirate

(Q.) Tough riding blue jeans
(A.) http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcbeware/dragginjeans.html

(Q.) SlashGuard Gloves
(A.) www.damascusgear.com

(Q.) What is a scooter?

(A.) The term "scooter" as commonly used in the newsgroup (NG) alt.scooter refers more properly to a "motorscooter", which are a subclass of motorcycles utilizing a distinctive structural design. These are generally two-wheeled vehicles originally based on motorized versions of children's push scooters, although some three-wheeled scooters are considered to exist. Motorscooters (or simply "scooters") have been around almost as long as motorcycles and the distinction between the two has often been blurred (see 1.4). The most commonly accepted definition of scooters requires two-wheeled vehicles (or two-wheeled vehicles modified to have a rear axle) that have wheels between 8 and 14 inches in diameter (smaller than motorcycles), step-thru frames and typically engines that are low and close to the rear wheel [see The New Encyclopedia Britannica (1997), vol. 8, pg. 367]. However, it should be noted that this definition is not universally accepted, as some have argued (Dregni & Dregni, for example) that scooters need only have 2 out of 3 of these attributes. Scooters also often incorporate full bodywork, including legshields and generally are designed to be easier to operate than standard motorcycles. It should be noted that scooters may be of any engine size, though historically they typically have ranged from 50cc to 250cc. Likewise, there is no limitation to possible top speed inherent in scooter design -- many scooters regularly exceed 100mph. Incidentally, the term "scooter" is also commonly used for "medical scooters", which are typically 3 or 4 wheeled vehicles for people with mobility problems, but are quite unlike "motorscooters". There are also scooters with very small engines (under 40cc) commonly called "go-peds" (a prominent brand), which look like motorized children's push scooters.

(Q.) Definitions by design

(A.) May or may not differ from legal definitions:

Motorcycle
=
Any two-wheeled vehicle

Motorscooter
=
A small motorcycle with a step-thru frame

Moped
=
A small motorcycle with pedal to help propel the bike

Kickscooter
=
A skateboard with handle bars

(A.) Vespa Scooters
Since its first appearance 50 yeas ago, over 15 million Vespas have been sold. They continue to sell well today all over the world. The name Vespa means “wasp" in Italian and refers to the original body shape of the well-known scooter line. Though the Vespa is not the first scooter, it is certainly the best known all over the world. Vespa is a prodigy of the Piaggio Company in Genoa, Italy – the company that designs and manufactures these unique vehicles. Other names may appear on Vespa scooters as well since licensing agreements all over the world have allowed this. The Piaggio scooters are produced by the name company; however, these scooters incorporate a newer, modern design.
The first Vespa was produced in 1946 and became an instant success. This early body design is still largely produced; Vespa’s timeless design is what has made it such a popularity around the world. Many model variations have been produced with small but noticeable differences. Engine sizes have ranged from 50-200cc.
Ever since its introduction to the market, the Vespa body has been made of steel. The body is a pressed steel monocoque chassis that has always set the Vespa apart from other mass-produced scooter. This manufacturing tradition not only makes the line stand out, but it provides structural rigidity and performance. Today, Vespa’s steel frame tradition continues in its Pontedera facility in Italy. This is perpetuated with the most advanced and innovative manufacturing methods. Vespas are designed and manufactured to perform and last for years to come!

Lambretta Scooters
Early on, companies began to compete against the Piaggio Company and its Vespa scooter line. One of the earliest and most effective competitors against Vespa was another Italian company – Innocenti. Innocenti developed their own scooter line called the Lambrettas. At the time, Vespas were already dominant among the public who rode scooter in Italy. As a result, Innocenti focused their attention and focus marketing to those who wanted something that had both more style and more performance than the Vespa line. Because of these two factors, the love for Lambretta scooters have endured despite the manufacturer’s struggle in the market.
The First Lambretta
The first was introduced to the public in 1947 – one year after the first Vespa. The rivalry between the two models had led the two manufacturers to come up with better and increasingly innovative models. However, Innocenti ran into a number of financial difficulties and eventually had to stop production of the Lambretta line in 1970.
Fall of Innocenti – the company of Lambretta
The original Lambretta plant was later sold off to Scooters India, Limited (SIL). The plant moved to India, where it still exists. While the plant equipment and overhead were being transported and reassembled in India, the Serveta Company of Eibar, Spain picked up a license from Innocenti to produce a line of Lambretta scooters that had slight variations from the standard Innocenti designs. In 1979, SIL began manufacturing the older Innocenti designs. However, it struggled as a government owned operation. The last handful of Lambretta GP200 scooters was produced in 1997; there are rumors that the plan is in the process of relocation to Turkey. Manufacture may resume there during the new millennium under new ownership. Despite the company’s problems, the love for the Lambretta scooter continues to live on around the world.

Sears Scooters
What are Allstate or Sears scooters? For many years, U.S.A. retailer Sears, Roebuck & Company sold scooters in both their catalogs and retail stores. However, these scooters were always re-badged scooters produced by various specialized scooter manufacturers. For example, Sears sold either Cushman or Vespa scooters under the “Allstate” label. The Allstate label was also used for mopeds and small motorcycles produced by manufacturer Puch. For a few years, scooters were also sold under the “Sears” label as well.
Most of the Allstate scooters that Sears sold were very basic Vespa models that were different mainly in their cosmetic and aesthetic details. Plus, they lacked the front dampeners of Vespas. Put aside the differentiations, they were Vespas in every respect eventhough collectors often perceive them as having less value, mainly because of the large number that was sold over the years and the lack of the well-known Vespa aesthetic details. Cushman also sold step-thru scooters to Sears for their mail-order sales during the years of 1951 to 1961. With only minor changes from the normal production runs, the scooters were sold under the Allstate name.

Yamaha Scooters
Did you know that Yamaha marketed a classic scooter back in 1960 in Japan? However, it was not much of a success sine Fuji and Mitsubishi was largely dominating the Japanese market. As a result, in the mid-60s, Yamaha gave up. Like Honda, Yamaha re-entered the scooter market in 1980. It brought with it updated versions of their earlier designs. This time, they were successful not only in Asia, but also in Europe and in the United States. Yamaha has also entered into various licensing agreements with other companies around the world. The company produces a popular scooter line in France through their subsidiary MBK, which sells quite well throughout the European regions, including Italy.

Honda Scooters
Honda had been producing classic scooters since the 50s and 60s in Japan. However, because its competitors (Fuji and Mitsubishi) were both far better at it, Honda decided to give up in the mid-60s. It redirected its attention on their Cub moped line instead. The irony however was that the wild success of Honda’s Cub actually ended up driving Fuji and Mitsubishi out of the two-wheeled market forever.
It wasn’t until 1980 that Honda decided to re-enter the Japanese scooter market. It later began exporting their new modern scooters to the United States, Europe and Asia, which turned out to be very successful. These scooters have been licensed to other companies and Honda has grown to the same position of Vespa’s Piaggio Company. Honda continues its quest to increase market share. It has set up plants around the world to produce scooters. This includes production in Italy, where Honda scooters sell quite well.

(Q.) Which Scooter 2 buy?

(A.) www.bigpeoplescooters.com/learn5.php - This should help get you started. Good luck!

(Q.) Do it yourself LoJack idea

(A.) From a suggestion first posted on the GothamRally forum:
LoJack uses a hidden transmitter registered with the police that they can turn on remotely when you report your vehicle stolen. Then they home in on the signal coming from your ride. They have it for bikes. It costs $595 but there are alternatives.
Since '02, Federal e911 regulations require all new (G3) cell phones be locatable so Big Brother can know your position by sensing your closest transmitting tower. Some providers let you find your friends this way. It's a little creepy. The buzzword for such gizmos is "Location Based Services." It's not GPS. GPS uses satellites in space and, yes, there are also GPS locators for stolen cars. There's at least one anti-theft device that uses LBS. You have to set up a cell phone account ($20 or so per month) to support it so it can contact you, then you hide it in your bike and it sends you periodic text or e-mail messages telling you where it is. (Sending lots of text messages can also cost $$$.)
Fuck that. Why not make one yourself?

If you have a Cingular/AT&T phone (for example), get yourself an additional line account with a new free phone for $9.95 a month. Hide your old phone in your bike (under the fuel tank) and invisibly rig it to your scooter battery with the clipped wires of a cell phone power cord for a car cigarette lighter. Set the phone to allow the "Find Friends" feature. Anytime you wannna know where your bike is, just pick up your own AT&T phone and use mMode ($3/month) to find out. And the police can use e911 do it much more precisely if your bike is stolen.

You'll want a phone/provider capable of e911 "Phase II service" for the best locating capability. Phase II is fairly new (2004). Maybe it would count for insurance discounts, too? Don't tell your
broker where you got it, just tell him you have such a system
installed. Rob S.

(Q.) How often do i need to check my vespa's oil reservoir?

(A.) Every time you get on the bike look at the sight glass. When you see a white bubble add oil. If you TOP OFF the oil tank it should take you around 450 miles (give or take) to drain it to empty.

(Q.) Where can i get more info on 2 stroke oil?

(A.) www.BigPeopleScooters.com They also have a great wealth of other info on these "Learn" pages.

(Q.) A List of Tools / Stuff to Carry.

(A.) 1. Multi screwdriver. Try to get one that has six or more attachments. Small & large, both flat head and Philips.

2. Metric set of open end wrenches ranging from 5.5 mm-17mm (if possible). Home depot has a great set for $8. A small metric socket set is also recommended ranging again from 5.5 mm-17mm. If you have limited storage space you can slim down to just the ones you know you might need for basic roadside stuff. Think cables, tires, breaks, electrics, and carb.

3. Pliers, needle nose and a medium size one. *A leatherman type tool could be used for the needle nose & they have other things that come in handy too, like the file.

4. Spark plug wrench (get the right one, small frames are different than large frames)

5. Cables - 1 clutch cable, 2 gear cables, 1 throttle, Pinch bolts (3 or more) *It is rare that you need to replace an outer on the side of the road so i don't think you really need to carry any. Also, a neat trick i got from our friends at Scooters 'O' is to oil up all your spare cables and keep them in a ziploc freezer bag in your kit. A light coating of standard crank case oil is all that is needed.

6. Spare tire.

7. Small roll of electrical tape

8. 2 extra spark plugs.

9. P series and those with batteries carry a fuse and flasher if you are worried about horn and directional lights.

10. It couldn't hurt to have a 3'-4' lenth of clear fuel line to use as a syphon for emergencies. I have also found that somebody will eventually get a cracked fuel line and need it replaced. You look like a hero when you pull out your syphon hose and cut off just the perfect length for your friend that hasn't read this FAQ.

* 2 stroke oil (synthetic best) and oil mixing cup goes with out saying.

(Q.) Information on tire pressure

(Q.) How much air should i put in the tires?
(A.) 17-18psi front. 25-28psi rear (solo), 35-36 psi rear (w/passenger)

(Q.) Do you have a recommendation for a good gauge? I use a standard automobile gauge, the kind that the thing shoots out the bottom measuring pressure, but it always measures at least 5 pounds less than the gauge on the bike pump (Blackburn, pretty good quality) that I use to pump up my tires. Is it better to err on the "a little more" air pressure, or "a little less"?

(A.) I suggest a quality dial gauge like this one: - Porter
www.getagauge.com/DialTireGauges.cfm

(A.) In hot weather if you put too much pressure in your tires you run the risk of causing a blowout. I would say that in any kind of weather you should err on the side of less. - stian

(Q.)Appraisal for my insurance co.

(A.) How it works; You call Super Sonic Scooters 614.299.8480 You tell Scott you need an appraisal for your scooter You email Scott 3 pics of your scooter (left, right, front) You tell Scott how much $ you've got invested in your bike. You provide him with all of your relevant info and a list of accessories etc. on the scooter. He feeds all this info into the form and basically justifies why you're insuring a bike that blue-books at $300 for $4000. He mails you the completed, printed appraisal then you cut out your photos of the scooter and staple them to the form. You supply it to your insurance company and shell out extra $$$ for "stated value" insurance. Obviously it's gonna cost you more, Scooter insurance that only costs $40 a year is only providing Blue-Book levels of protection. Phil POC

Insurance costs and related info

(Q.) Transporting my bike to a rally.

(A.) When I picked up my scooter from Washington DC this was the best way. New York Rent-A-Car rented me a very nice mini-van. $100 for 24 hrs unlimited milage (they even removed the back seat for me) all you have to do is be willing to make the drive there in back in one day...and it has to be a weekday. good luck. - john kapp

(A.) If you have a decent sized car, just stick the scoot in your trunk. I managed to transport a P125 down from Vermont in the trunk of my Ford Taurus. You will need help lifting it in and out, though. - John Ife

(A.) www.heeters.com/carriers - Versa-Haul carriers fit any class III hitch. Basic model starts at $280.

(A.) www.mototote.com - Moto-Tote carriers also fit any class III hitch. Basic model starts at $330.

(A.) For anyone with a vehicle that is fitted with a 2 inch hitch receiver there is a super deal on a 20"x60" cargo carrier, or scooter carrier as i like to call mine. Check out www.northerntool.com the item number is 330247 it is only $59 on sale and is rated to carry 500lbs. A little short for a lammy (though i have trasnported my lammy on mine) but absolutely perfect for a vespa. -Gregory

(Q.) Shipping a bike across the USA

(A.) Daily Direct - Specialists in Nationwide Motorcycle Transportation.

(A.) I had a P shipped from Fl to N.Y. door to door by Conway Freight (there are various franchises w/ similar names.) for about 315$. Insurance was about 40$ more. Wood for crating was about 50$. They use short tractor trailers and must have enough access to your street. - Mike

(A.) Forward Air seems to be the best for the price. A fully crated Vespa shipped from Cali to NY would probably cost around $250-$300. The only drawbacks: you have to crate the scooter yourself and get it to/from an airport. Forward Air only delivers from airport to airport. If you want to go door to door, the costs go up dramatically. Good luck! - Anthony Parish

(A.) www.freightmart.com

(Q.) Insurance costs and related info

(A.) Your major factors are:

1) your age
2) your location (Not in Kansas)
3) your riding experience

Cheapest insurance for basic coverage in NYC $109 a year, that I've seen (w/a clean driving record). That's for an Li 150. The place is called B&H Brokers but the policy ends up being through Progressive. The number is (718) 335-8500. I actually listed my address being in Sullivan County and it was only $50, but I had priced Manhattan for the $109 quote. John

Rider Insurance in NJ is moto-friendly.

www.insurance-motorcycles.com -Slappy

If your bike is older then 25 years you can insure it as antique vehicle at JC Taylor and they insure it for value that you tell them to, you pay premium per hundred dollar you choose as replacement value. Way cheaper then any other insurance company. Though it has to be stored inside, thats the catch for NY. - Anna

Try my agent K&K Insurance in Staten Island @ 718 987-1515 Talk to Kim...They only insure MC's and Scoots.
-Millie Beck

(Q.) Looking for cold weather gear?

(A.) A few people have asked me to post information about my horseblanket (the thick nylon skirt that wraps around the front of the scooter and covers the driver's legs). I got it in a London scooter shop called R. Agius (pronounced "R. AY-gee-us"). Their phone number is: 011-44- 20-7723-0995. The person to speak to is Claudia. They are located at 363 Edgware Rd near Marble Arch. The horseblanket for a P-series Vespa costs 65 pounds (about $100) and an ET-series costs 75 pounds. You might be able to get them cheaper in France, since that's where they're made. The official product name is "Bagster." Or, I guess in French it's called, "le Bagster." I'm sure they sell them at other scooter shops in the UK, etc, though I don't know of any other place. - Anthony Parish

(A.) Here are a bunch of links for cold weather stuff - Montgomery McIndoe

Handlebar Muffs

Hanson's version of Handlbar Muffs - 'Winterhands'

MFGsupply.com - Hand Warmers

Sparepartsforcars.com - Face Mask w/ Chest Protector

Sparepartsforcars.com - Insulated Neck & Chest Warmer

(Q.) Info on do it yourself paint jobs.

(A.) http://www.redhaus.com/vespa/booth.html
Anyone who is interested in painting their scoot themselves (using minimal $$$) can get some great information here. The site is funny, well-written, and worth the visit. Also, JPM (the guy who restored these scooters and designed the site) is super-friendly and he likes to get feedback, questions, and any other scooter-related e-mail.
Thanks 2 Anthony Parish 4 this one.

(Q.) Info on parking facilities in NYC.

(A.) The link I had to a NYC site is dead now so here is one of my experiences that may be valid for you.
I had a super cut my lock and put my scooter in the street once. I had been putting it there for weeks. He didn't leave a note or anything. No warning. That cost me $80 for the lock and boy was i pissed. My suggestion is to not be in front of any big building and try to avoid avenues when parking on the sidewalk. Also try to find a place on the street that is on the side of a building not the facade. You still may get some super or owner to complain but i think there is less of a chance. I like having my pager number written on my cover so if someone really wants to complain they can call me first instead of the cops. I have had my bike impounded before. I locked it to a parking meter for over a year until one day someone complained. The police left me alone until they got that one complaint. They might have gotten around to busting me sooner or later anyway. I think the person that complained was some guy that i chased down and yelled at for letting his dog piss on my cover. You got to be careful not to offend even the pissing dog owners when you're doing something illegal. - stian

(Q.) Advice on beating a parking ticket.

(A.) Look for errors on the ticket.The ticket must state the year and make of the scooter, the license plate number (with one exception) must list the infraction, must bear the officer's name, etc. If any of these is missing or incorrect, the ticket will be thrown out. The law says that your VIN number must be exposes (so they can properly ticket you for a cover). It is illegal to park on the sidewalk (although if you were actually on private property, you MIGHT be able to argue this point. Anway, look for errors on the tickets. Chances are good that there will be some. Make sure the description on the ticket matches the description on your registration. DO NOT challenge these tickets by mail. You are much more likely to get off if you challenge them in person. Go to the PVB adjudication center in the Municipal Building downtown. Get there first thing in the morning (8:30 am), because the judges are in a better mood since they haven't been listening to the same bullshit excuses for 8 hours straight. Good luck, - Tom G., Esq.

I did alot of research in this issue when I got my tickets. It may well be that most cops will not ticket a scoot if it is within 2 feet from a building, but that is not the law. - Tom G.

What happens at the Parking Violations Adjudication center is that you give your name to the clerk, and plead not guilty. You are eventually called into an office where an administrative law judge is sitting. They ask to see the tickets. You show them to the ALJ. They may also ask for your license and registration. DO NOT SAY ANYTHING UNTIL YOU ARE ASKED A QUESTION. I have found that the first thing an ALJ will do is do is to look at the face of the ticket and see if there are any noticeable flaws. Sometimes they will just say that the tickets are invalid. If not, they will tell you that you will now "go on the record" which means they turn on a tape recorder. They describe the ticket numbers and the violations, and ask you what your defense is. They will take the tickets one at a time (but if they don't, then you should ask to discuss them one at a time). If it is your option, then start with the easiest one to beat. Say, Your Honor, the first ticket was given to me for not having insurance. I think the ticket is invalid because this scooter is classified as a moped (see the registration), which do not need insurance in New York state. See what the ALJ says to that. There is no need to be legalistic about the hearing. Just explain your positions and see how they fly. Don't overwhelm the judge with alot of excuses, either . Just start with your best excuse and see if that works. Then move on to the next excuse until hopefully one works. Then move onto the next easiest ticket. If you have a good excuse that pertains to all 5 tickets, you may want to start out with that one. Illegibility is not what I would call a good excuse. Keep it as a last ditch excuse. If none of the tickets have your license plate number on them, for example, then you should just say, "Your Honor, there is no license plate on any of these tickets. Is that a problem?" The ALJ will know that it IS a problem. For the No visible license plate ticket, check to see if the cop printed the license plate on the ticket. If so, that is probably enough to get the ticket dismissed (unless there are some further explanations on the ticket). If not, you may be able to have the ticke dismissed on that ground. All parking tickets must bear a license plate number, unless there is no plate on the vehicle, and in that case, the law is that the cop has to STATE that on the ticket. Most ALJs don't even look for the explanation - - no plate number; invalid ticket. For the covered VIN number, I would try to argue that Yes, the bike was covered because this is NYC and uncovered bikes get stolen!! However, tell the ALJ that the cover didn't obscure the VIN number - - the officer just didn't know where to look for the number. For this, take a picture of the vin to demonstrate that it is in a hidden location. For the expired registration, it is not legally an excuse for you not to have received the new sticker. That is your problem. If you don't have a sticker, then you have an obligation to get the scooter off the street (and sidewalk). An ALJ might take pity if you use this argument, but don't count on it. Look for a defect in the way the ticket was made out. For the sidewalk parking, your best bet is also a defect in the way the ticket was made out. Failing that, I would argue that you were actually on private property, but this may not fly either. Depends on the ALJ. If you really were on private property, take a picture of the scoot it was in when the ticket was issued, and try to make it clear that it was not a public sidewalk. The good thing about this procedure is that the cop will not be there. Also, show the ALJ alot of respect. Don't try to argue. Just present your case. If you argue on ticket one, they will be less likely to dismiss ticket 2, etc. Good luck! - Tom G.

(Q.) Info on the NewYorkScooters email list?

(A.) Here is the lists home page ---> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/newyorkscooters

Post message: newyorkscooters@yahoogroups.com

Subscribe: newyorkscooters-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

Unsubscribe: newyorkscooters-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

*Please remember that no one will unsubscribe you. You do it yourself. When it's time to unsubscribe just send an email to the link above. But wait, if you still want to stay a member and have access to the groups home page, info., & web based posts, then don't unsubscribe completely. Go to the home page, look yourself up under members and edit your settings. You can set it to stop sending emails all together if you like. It's very easy. BTW, it is polite to add your name to the bottom of each of your posts. If you want to stay anonymous then please just lurk. We don't mind. Thanks and I hope you enjoy your stay with the newyorkscooters group.

Spam Policy:
What constitutes spam and what is cool?
If you are in a band or involved in an event that you know a good number of us would be interested in, then it's fine to post it. But if you are in a show every week and post it all the time it might become annoying. We are on the look out for obvious spam and will deal with each case individually. The first step being to contact the sender and find out the origin of the post. If you feel the need to advertise something not obviously 'scooter related' then follow these simple guide lines. Introduce yourself and give the reason why your venue would be of interest to over 1000 scooterists. If, for instance, you are promoting a monthly club night then you only have to give your post the personal touch the first time. Once the venue is established as something a lot of us go to then it's cool to just give reminders of up coming dates. The personal touch is always better though. That's as much as we have as a spam policy. Posts don't always have to be scooter related. For instance, if you are looking for an apartment and need help...feel free to ask the list. Thanks for understanding & keeping it clean, stian

(Q.) Are u NEW to scooting? Here's more FAQs and other great resources.

(A.) You can find the answer to all these questions at the ScooterWorks.com site.
My scooter is slow. What can I do to speed it up? How do I run cables? Where do these wires go? How do I get my front fender off? How do I hook up my rectifier? How can I tell if my exhaust is plugged? Where is that oil coming from? How do I change my oil? My scooter backfires.What do I do? How to set timing on a points-ignition Vespa motor. Installing a New Complete Control Cable. Getting your Scooter Ready for Winter. How to Remove a Flywheel. Clutch Rebuild. Get Your Scooter Ready for Spring. The Oil Report. Sloppy Headset Bearings. Dr.Vespa FAQ.

(A.) A good starting point in making decisions regarding small and large purchase choices - from what kind of scooter to what kind of oil to buy. Finally, they have a growing list of simple how-tos including cable & tire changing. When the page loads check the menu on the left. BigPeopleScooters.com/Learn

(A.) Scooterhelp.com- This whole site is well made and very helpfull. They have a lot of good info, tips and tricks, general maintenence stuff, etc. for vespas and lambrettas. - Nancy Welch

(A.) VespaMaintenance.com - Another great resource by Scoot.net.

(A.) There are some helpful articles at www.SCOMO.net

(Q.) Need VIN's & scooter wiring schematics?

(A.)

VIN / chassis / frame #s 4 Vespas Vespa wiring schematics - by Mark Swift

(A.) Vespa Serial Number Search. You can also find where on your bike the serials should be located. There is a Lambretta serial number section as well. Scooterhelp.com/serial/ves.serial.numbers

(Q.) What is the best way to change an outer cable?

(A.) Many people say that you should tape the end of the old one to the end of the new one and pull. I say that you are asking for trouble. If there is any snag at all you will end up pulling the two outers apart somewhere in the middle of the run and that's not good. Tim Walker suggests a much more secure method. Get some inner sized cable off the spool at your favorite hardware store. 1/16" is the correct size. Make sure it is more than twice as long as the outer you are trying to replace. If you don't want to bother measuring then get 14' just to be safe. It's cheap enough anyways. Now run it thru your old outer and your new one. Snug them together. Clamp each end of the braided cable with a pinch bolt and you are ready to safely pull the new outer into position. You could use a vise-clamp on the pulling end if you happen to only have one pinch bolt. In the diagram the left side is the pulling end. Good luck.
For a more detailed description click here.

(A.) More intructions on changing cables - bigpeoplescooters.com/learn

(Q.) Where 2 find a Lambretta long range fuel tank.

*Note: A standard Lambretta fuel tank holds about 7 litres (1.85 Gallons US).

(A.) ScootRS - High capacity fuel tank that uses the glovebox space. 13.5 liters (3.56 Gallons US)
BTW, They also sell a legshield glovebox to make up for the loss of storage space.

(A.) www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/petroltank.jpg

(A.) Cambridge Lambretta Workshop - stainless steel. Aproximatly 13 litres, supplied in a semi polished finish. Takes the space of the existing fuel tank & air box, but you retain the tool box. Comes w/ 2 straps, also in stainless. Sourced from UK, quality Excellent
warning: often out of stock.

(Q.) How to get vinyl stickers off w/o hurting the paint

(A.) If you have an art supply house nearby, see if they have a product called Bestine. This solvent will take adhesive off of painted metal surfaces, plastic, paper, fabric, and probably anything else you can put a sticker on. Apply some Bestine to a rag, and dab it around the edges of your sticker to get a lifted edge. Then, as you peel the sticker back, dab the rag along the still bonded area. It should lift off in one piece if you're patient. Then, rub the rag on the stickered area to lift off any remaining adhesive. Wear gloves if you use it-- Bestine is made with a particularly small heptane molecule, which helps it get through to the stickum, but also helps it go through your skin pretty easily. - Cameron Wallace

(Q.) How do i know when it's time to get a new battery?

(A.) 1. A motorcycle battery has a life span of two years. Sometimes they'll last longer, usually they won't (especially if you don't maintain the battery or leave your bike in cold places in the winter).
2. You must keep the cells in the battery topped off (see the fill lines on the battery), tap water is fine for this purpose.
3. A battery is junk if the case is cracked.
4. A battery is junk if you see visible oxidation (white scales) in any cell.
5. A battery is junk if any cell doesn't bubble and fizzle while you are recharging the battery.
6. A battery is junk if any one cell has a specific gravity of 0.5sG or less. Use a hydrometer to measure (yeah I know, no one I know has a hydrometer either).
1.36sG+ = Fully charged
1.13-1.35sG = partially charged
0.5-1.12sG = dead but chargeable
7. Charging a bike battery with an auto-battery recharger or jumping it off of a car will ruin the battery (and could cause it to explode). Make sure you are using a trickle charger designed for motorcycles. When you buy a new battery from a motorcycle or scooter shop they should fill and charge the battery for you before you leave the shop (this usually takes about six hours or an overnight period). If you buy a battery mail order you should get a bottle of acid to fill the battery with. What model bike do you have? A Vespa Rally 200 that is run with the headlights on all the time will *NEVER* properly recharge. All other model Vespas and all modern twist-n-go bikes should properly recharge unless there is a wiring problem or you've added mod-excessive lighting.
Answer by John M. Stafford

(A.) I have a small correction to offer. You write that jumping your scotter off a car "will ruin the battery (and could cause it to explode)." This is not wholly accurate. What fries the scooter is the huge amounts of current coming off the car's alternator. If the car isn't running, the alternator isn't cranking out any amps. That means the 12-volt battery in your car is safe to jump your 12-volt scoot. Just make sure the car is off and that the car battery has a decent charge. Hope this helps. -James Vasile

(Q.) The higher the plug # the colder your bike runs, right?

(A.) Correct, with NGK 6 for city, 8 for highway, 9 for kits and T5s. For plugs other than NGK, here's a cross-reference chart...
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2StrokeSmoke/database?method=reportRows&tbl=1
(You need to belong to 2StrokeSmoke to view this database.)

(A.) More about sparkplugs - BigPeopleScooters

(Q.) I need a cheap man w/ van to move my scoot in NYC?

(A.) I know a guy with a REALLY funky (lots of fur everywhere) van that moves dogs around the city - it's called Pet Taxi - he has a ramp and he was like 12 or 15 bucks for an hour. his name is David Grimes - his cell is 917-833-2613 - a good # to have when you're in a tough spot! He carts his Harley in it - g/

(Q.) Where can i get my bike inspected in the NYC area? + other inspection info.

(A.) Manhattan:

VespaSoho is now doing inspections. Introduce yourself to Zach & Wen(owners). Spencer is the wrench man. Open Sundays but closed Mondays.

Camrod did my inspection. They are on 47-48th and 11th ave. See Pedro in service. They are pretty fast -- they just basically checked the lights and printed the sticker. - mattpeyton

www.cycletherapynyc.com
540 West 38th Street 2nd Floor NYC,10018 near the javitz center (212) 947-7613 But don't have them work on your bike. Trust me. -stian
They are open until 7pm on the weekdays, 5 on saturday. Gus is the man. But he's not foolin, everything has to work. -gregory

MotorSport - 627 11th Ave (46&47) 212-582-3500 They don't fix classic scooters but they do inspect them.

(A.) Brooklyn:

Motorcycle works - at 346 Bond street - Between Carroll and President Streets. 718.802.1705. Definitely call ahead. He hates surprises.

Precision Motorcycles & Watercraft at 8691 18th Avenue and 88th St. in the Bensonhurst section of the Borough, 718.837-2896. They're familiar with older scooters (usually have a couple for sale) and have passed my sccot on its inspection for the past two years. Not that there was any reason for it to fail, but some places can be a real pain in the ass about older machines and they're not. John Ife

Prospect Cycles on Coney Island Avenue, on the left hand side just past the parade grounds street (Caton Ave, I think). Inspections done only on Tuesdays from 10 am - 2pm. Better have a mirror attached. John Ife

other inspection info.:
Inspection tests can depend on the shop. The guy at Motorcycle works denied me my inspection permit twice (he's pretty anal), so I went to Camrod on the west side of Manhattan, slipped the inspector an extra ten bucks, and passed... - steve A.

They all have to charge $6. It's the law. Make sure you have working: headlamp(high/low beam), brake lights, turning signals(post '84), at least one mirror, speedometer(post '79) and some places want to hear your horn. Check this out if you haven't yet www.nydmv.state.ny.us/forms/mv529b.pdf stian

All NYS Motorcycle (MOT LMB and LMA) registrations expire at the same time 4/30/03. When you renew your registration (don't wait until the last minute) You are asked to provide an odometer reading and your inspection sticker number, If your vehicle requires an inspection (The "Class" is "MOT" or "LMA" then you are required to have your bike inspected annually) If your Class is "LMB" then no inspection required. If you do not have an inspection sticker on your bike and it requires one, or you do not have access to your bike and cannot get the OD reading or the Sticker number you can write something to the effect of "Bike in Storage for Winter, No Access" or "Bike inaccessible due to restoration" sign it and send it back. The first claim becomes less credible the warmer it gets. If your bike is LMB and does not require inspection sticker, then you can write "Not Required" Gregory Heller

(Q.) I have a Honda Helix. Can i join the Sunday Ride?

(A.) Yes, but be warned that you might feel a little out of place because 99% of the time there will only be classic Italian metal scooters there. If you show up on a plastic scooter someone will try to talk you into selling it and buying a Lambretta or Vespa. They will be nice about it of course. Also, some feel more strongly about this than others. I say that any two wheels rolling down the road is freedom and freedom is good. - stian

(Q.) Minimum engine size for highways in the USA?

(A.) Contrary to popular belief, there is no one single standard that governs all federal interstate highways as to minimum speed. Nearly all speed regulation in the USA is done by individual state authorities, and thus there are 50 different answers to this question. In general, you must have at least a 150cc engine to operate on any major highway in the USA, along with the ability to not impede traffic, no matter how fast a speed that may require. In most cases, it's highly advisable to have at least 200cc for any highway driving at all and preferably more.

(Q.) How can I get a title when the seller has none?

(A.) There are several companies that exist just to help obtain titles when the seller has none. Among the more popular ones would be International Title Service and Broadway Title Service. All title companies use the most lenient state title laws (currently New Hampshire and Alabama) to produce transferable titles. Technically, you "sell" them your scooter, they title it in one of these states, and then "re-sell" it to you. There have been recent reports that some states are now refusing Alabama titles by these services, so you might want to check that out in your case. And of course, all states have procedures you can follow to make up for a lost title, though often they are lengthy and complicated. Lastly, it should be noted that "title" is a certificate of ownership and that some states do NOT require a title to register your scooter. Please check with your local motor vehicle bureau for the regulations applicable to your state.
International Title Service- www.its-titles.com fill out their forms, send them with payment and they will send you a title, you take that to the DMV and register your bike, you will need to have proof of insurance to register.
BTW, with a classic looking bike like a newer Indian GP it is to your advantage to register it as a '79 or older bike. That way your turn signals can be removed some day if you want and you don't have to have a working speedo. In NY state that is. Because cops and motorcycle inspectors don't know much about classic scooters you can probably get away with doing this with any model bike. They believe what the registration says and you can always say that you've put newer body parts on it.

(A.) How to get a title for a vintage bike WITHOUT using a service... its pretty amazing actually... here it is:
Thanks to Tom and Anna, I found out how to title your bike without going through ITS, Broadway or another title service). Not only is it cheaper- but you get your title the SAME day! Here is what you need:
- Original Bill of Sale (needs to include price, year/make/model, odometer reading and VIN number )
- Completed FORM DTF-802 (Statement of Transaction)
- Completed FORM MV-51B (Statement of Ownership)
- Completed FORM MV-82 (Vehicle Registration/Title Application)
- Verification of the VIN # (tracing/rubbing/clear photograph of VIN or signed statement from a police officer)
- Proof of name and date of birth (NYS Driver's license)
- Proof of insurance (original insurance card)

Take ALL of these things down to the DMV, wait in line and hand them all over. If you have a problem, ask for a supervisor but at the Greenwich Street location I had no problems. I was in and out in less than an hour. Also- it only cost me $63.00 (and that included the tax I had to pay on the vehicle purchase price!). ITS/Broadway/etc charge between $75 and $125 and take weeks/months. You walk out with a NON-TRANSFERRABLE registration and the TRANSFERRABLE one comes from Albany in 4-6 weeks.
Anyway, there you go... now, GET LEGAL! - alli

(Q.) I need patches made for my Scooter Club

(A.) This place will take minimum orders of 50 patches, plus they have metallic thread: fastpatch.com
Higher priced then others but they may not be farming out to Taiwan. Let me know if you find out. stian

We used www.idealpatch.com They were 1.89 each, with an order of 75. I cannot remember exactly how long they took, but I'm pretty sure it was less than 30 days. Andrea / Instigators

This place has the best looking patches, but their minimum order is 100 pinpromotions.com
I used them for our Gotham rally patch. Very happy with the price and service. stian

(Q.) I was thinking of importing a scooter but was warned by everyone that the DOT wouldn't let it pass through customs and it would not meet up to EPA standards. Any comments on this?

(A.) The questions that arise surround whether you are trying to bring a new or used bike, two- or four-stroke engine into the country. There are so many permutation$ and variable$ surrounding the various custom$ and legality issues that you're generally better off avoiding attempts to bring in single bikes, especially if you're bringing something common that can be easily obtained here. Since there are so many people that bring in scooters by the crate into this country, like Sheldon at Pirate Imports in Houston, Darren at Scooters East in Delaware, and Gene at Scooters Originali, why go through the hassle of trying to do it yourself?It's not easy to find a bike overseas worth shipping back to the states. Note that if it's over 25 years old you will have less trouble importing it.

(Q.) Why do i have to run my engine in?

(A.) Two stroke engines should not be run at constant speeds for long periods of time when new. i.e. don't go out on the highway for half an hour at exactly 50 mph. The main reason for this is that the piston rings must wear-in, and running at a constant speed doesn't give them full expansion in the cylinder. You run the risk of grooving your cylinder if you run at constant speeds for long periods of time, such as 20 mins. or longer. This could lead to oil blow-by or excessive and/or loss of cylinder pressure. I would NOT let the bike idle for more than a few minutes, as this has essentially the same effect. That's the bad news. The good news is, on a Vespa, in big city areas, I doubt seriously that any of this would be a problem. It's more of a "new car on the highway" problem. If you DO go out on the highway, vary your speed every 10 minutes or so. Around town you've got no worries. You'll be at stop lights, in traffic, and generally mixing it up. Also, don't cane it for the first few hundred miles. That will cause excessive wear on the rings and valve train. Simply keep the throttle short of full crank for the first few hundred miles. i.e., drive nicely. Just drive normally without long excessive periods of constant throttle, and you'll be fine. And change your oil early on, such as 500 & 1000 miles.

(Q.) I need some parts chromed

(A.) If you can't find a local place, consider: Speed & Sport Chrome Plating / 404 Broadway Ave. Houston, TX 77012 - 713.921.0235
After using several *local* platers for a few years, I was turned on to these guys. Triple show chrome, VERY reasonable rates, and anything you send them is back to you within 15 days! Doesn't matter what time of the year or how much you send 'em. I haven't used anyone else in 3 years ~ no need to. -Atti

(Q.) What if my bike wants to seize?

(A.) You will feel it wanting to happen by a drop in power even when you have the throttle wide open. It will start feeling real sluggish. It totally seizes when the rear wheel locks up on you. At speed this can be dangerous. To keep it from happening back off all the way on the throttle and slow way down when you feel it coming on. To get out of it once a seizer has happened, simply pull in the clutch and ride it out. And of course let off the throttle completely. If you were going down the highway at the time and caught it before you melted your piston then you will be able to let the clutch out when you slow to 2nd or 1st gear speed. Don't let the clutch out as you downshift like you normally would. The cylinder should have cooled enough by now to allow for a compression start. You should be able to continue riding enough to get home. It may feel fine after that but you obviously have a problem that needs fixing so take it real easy. I have had this happen to me on a P125 that had too big of a carb on it. stian

(Q.) Where can i get information on helmets?

(A.) www.smf.org/
Snell memorial foundation discusses in detail their helmet testing standards and has a list of approved helmets. Their tests will weed out helmets that aren't up to snuff. Basically if it isn't approved your not gonna wanna wear it.
www.araihelmet.com
www.mawonline.com (AKA accwhse.com) has some of the best prices on skid lids.

Mine is a HJC "Symax". I love it. It's the most comfortable flip helmet I found for under $400. It has a one hand flip up front, removable padding, and a reasonable price. I tried it on at a local MC shop, and then purchased it online for a much better price. Make sure that it fits quite snug at first. It will give a little after a few long rides. David R.

I just hooked up an HJC Symax from www.motodepot.com for $180 - way cheaper than anywhere else i checked. The next lowest price i could find on that helmet was $215, which is still about $35-$85 cheaper than you can usually find it. The helmet rocks, by the way. Super comfy. -Chad Kincaid

www.helmetshop.com Their prices are very competative. -Gregory

www.motorcycle-usa.com The motorcycle super store.

(Q.) What's it like having a scooter in the city?

(A.) For people who don't know about the beauty of having a classic Italian scooter in the city.

Well first of all there is the practical aspect. Getting around traffic that is always backed up. Big bikes can't split traffic the way we can.
The ease of finding a parking spot when you get to your destination. If you have a big bike on the sidewalk it draws more attention from cops and jerky neighbors.
The cool people you meet that have and love scooters. They don't have to wear leather and act tough just because they're ride 2 wheels. Scooterists always have an instant connection thru their mutual love for these bikes. Something that most other people don't understand. At least not in the usa.
Italian scooters have more style and grace than any other bike out there. It makes you look cool even if you're a little nerdy. (Well, we are all a little nerdy.) Most bikes have spare tires. Something you'll never see on a big bike & it sure can come in handy. Control cables are easy to change on the side of the road, unlike Japanese scooters.
My favorite reason is the 'Sunday Ride'!

Of course there are a few drawbacks: rain, idiot drivers, theft, and pot holes. But it's not enough to outweigh the good.

(Q.) hey, stian - i dunno if this is a question you want to answer, being a big scooter fan and rider, but... i'm thinking of getting a scooter to get me around manhattan. but i'm wondering about the accident rate on these things in this city, given all the pissed off cabbies, pissed off other drivers, rough street surfaces, crazy messengers, people not being used to scooters in traffic, etc.
i called a police precinct and they weren't so helpful, so i've been looking around the net at scooter club sites to see if anyone mentions accidents, and i haven't found anything...
so i'm wondering if you have any input, being someone who also knows a whole bunch of other scootering folks in nyc! best, holly

(A.) Hi Holly,
Sure i'll answer it. Every once in awhile someone gets into a little scrape but nothing too serious in years. Many years ago a guy got into an accident on the Belt parkway when he tried to change lanes out of the roughed up lane into the newly paved lane. That meant he was trying to jump a 4 inch curb at an very slight angle at 50 mph. He and his bike took a tumble. He went to the hospital for minor injuries and his P200 rode just fine. Good thing he had a full face helmet on because you could see scrapes on it that would not have been pretty if it had been a half shell. We were on one of our sunday rides and there were about a dozen other riders right behind him. I rode his bike and we continued the ride. He did not understand the physics involved or else he would not have made that stupid mistake.
Basically you have to be way more defensive driving any two wheeled vehicle in the city. You are always looking out for the cabby who is trolling for a fair and doesn't care who he cuts off to get it, the people in parked cars or stopped traffic that open their doors without looking (including peeps getting out of taxis), people walking out into traffic between cars, potholes that will swallow you whole, and all kinds of other things that can happen. But don't be discouraged. I can give you some good advice here. It is best to stay with the flow of traffic. Don't follow too close though so you can see a pothole coming. To pass cars is the most dangerous thing because they rarely look before changing lanes. The next most dangerous thing is to go too slow. You don't want drivers getting pissed off and flying around you. They don't care how close they come to you. In fact many people want to intimidate you because you slowed them down. Half the drivers are assholes and the other half are just plain stupid. That is why if you are worried about it but really want to take to the street on a scooter then you should take a defensive motorcycle driving course. You can find them in the yellow pages. Good luck and let me know about your progress. stian

(Q.) How does the law define Motorcycle / Scooter / Moped?

(A.) Now keep in mind that many states are currently revising their moped definitions. Virginia repealed the pedal requirement in 1998 and Maryland's pending HB 1402 would do the same. Now I don't know if New Jersey, New York, or Connecticut have anything pending right now, but their laws as currently written are:

MOPEDS and MOTORCYCLES (New York):

Class-
Full
Motorcycle A
Motor-driven cycle B
Moped C
Motorized bicycle

Defined as-

Top Speed over 40 mph, Engine larger than 150cc

TS btw. 30 & 40 mph, Engine 50-150cc

TS btw. 20 & 30 mph, Engine under 50cc

TS under 20 mph, Engine under 50cc

License / Permit Required

Class Motorcycle Permit or Junior M/C Permit

Class MC Permit or Junior MC Permit

Any Class

Any Class

Registration Required?

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Title Required?

Yes

No

No

No

Helmet & Eye Protection

Yes

Yes

Yes

No

May Operate On Any Traffic Lane?

Yes

Except Freeway

Right Lane / Shoulder Only

Right Lane / Shoulder Only

Insurance Required?

Yes

Yes

Yes

No

Inspection?

Yes

Yes

No

No

The speed and the cc requirements must both be met. A 340cc Cushman Highlander that does 39 mph is not a full motorcycle because it does not meet the speed requirement. An Aprilia SR50 that has been tuned to go 75-80 mph is not a full motorcycle because it doesn't meet the cc requirement, but because of the top speed, you will need to possess a full motorcycle license. A Vespa P200E or Lambretta GP200 are ALWAYS full motorcycles. Interesting to note that all limited use bikes require registration, but none require a title. Oh yeah, and the nice loophole that New York has left itself, "no uncertified vehicles are permitted to be ridden on New York roads and highways." Meaning your gray market Gilera Runner is always illegal in New York. All non-restricted scooters require you to possess a motorcycle license, you must wear a helmet, and only the big bikes are freeway legal. Check out the DMV website for more info: http://www.nydmv.state.ny.us/

MOPEDS and MOTORCYCLES (New Jersey):

Class-
Motorcycle Moped or Motorized Bicycle

Defined as-

Top Speed over 25 mph, Engine smaller than 50cc

TS under 25 mph

License / Permit Required?

Yes- Motorcycle Permit

Yes- Moped Permit

Registration Required?

Yes

Yes

Title Required?

Yes

Yes

Helmet & Eye Protection

Yes

Yes

May Operate On Any Traffic Lane?

Yes

Right Lane Only, No road divided by a median, esp. No Freeways or Roads with Posted Speed Limit over 50 mph

Insurance Required?

Yes

Yes

Inspection?

Yes

No

Please note that unlike New York which has four classes of cycles New Jersey has a much simpler two. Contrary to popular opinion New Jersey doesn't have "spoked wheel" requirement for mopeds (not to say they didn't repeal one recently, I don't have any Jersey law books from the pre-internet days), a moped is simply a "two-wheeled vehicle that does less than 25 mph" (and has a 50cc or smaller engine and outputs 1.5 bhp or less. Now this does put New Jersey at odds with many other states which have 30 mph maximums, and means that even your average "restricted" 50cc scooter is thus a motorcycle. Now the real kick in the teeth is that New Jersey law gives the executive branch (governor & appointees) the right to restrict the use of any motorcycle on any road. This means that unlike New York where you KNOW that a 150cc or smaller bike is illegal a freeway, New Jersey leaves this detail up to the regulations (and could theoretically even ban a Honda Goldwing from a city street in Newark). And what do the regulations say? Well, the Jersey Turnpike and MVS do not mention engine size and freeways at all. And the Garden State Parkway and Atlantic City Expressway do not post their regulations, however the commissioner of the Atlantic City Expressway has written me in the past and said that a motorcycle must have a 150cc engine or larger to traverse the ACE. All scooters require you to possess a motorcycle license, you must wear a helmet, and any scooter that can safely keep up with traffic is freeway legal. Check out the MVS website for more info: http://www.state.nj.us/mvc

MOPEDS and MOTORCYCLES (Connecticut):

Class-
Motorcycle Motor scooter
"Motor-driven cycle" Moped
"Bicycle w/ helper motor"

Defined as-

Top Speed over 30 mph,150cc or Larger Engine

10" Wheels, 50-150cc Engine

TS under 30 mph, 50cc or smaller

License / Permit Required

Yes- Motorcycle Permit

Yes- Motorcycle Permit

Yes- Any Class

Registration Required?

Yes

Yes

No

Title Required?

Yes

Yes

No

Helmet & Eye Protection

Under 18 / Yes

Under 18 / Yes

No

May Operate On Any Traffic Lane?

Yes

No Freeways

No Freeways

Insurance Required?

Yes

Yes

Yes

Inspection?

Only for vehicle 10 years old or over

Same as MC

No

Connecticut makes scootering interesting because it is one of only a small handful of states where a Vespa P200E is technically illegal on the interstate (because of the tire size), and like a handful of other states (Idaho, Kansas, and Kentucky) it also posts at freeway entrances that motorscooters are prohibited. Though because a P200 can easily surpass the snail's pace of traffic on I-95 I have never had an officer of the law personally inform me of such details. Also a scooter that otherwise meets the definition of a "moped" is considered a moped for license and registration purposes. All scooters over 50cc require you to possess a motorcycle license, helmets are optional for adults, and only scooters with big-tires and big-engines (ie not many) are freeway legal.
This Answer Courtesy of John M. Stafford

(Q.) Don't the small wheels on scooters make them unsafe?

(A.) NO! Contrary to common myth, the smaller wheels on scooters do not make them noticeably less safe and an argument can be made that this very trait makes them safer than their larger-wheeled cousins. Smaller wheels result in greater handling responsiveness, which can keep the scooterist out of trouble more readily. Scooters simply maneuver more easily than motorcycles generally. While it's true that smaller wheels are more vulnerable to getting caught by large potholes, you should also know that those same smaller wheels result in more lower end torque, which will more readily pull you out of that same pothole. This is why a scooter of the same engine size can often outperform a motorcycle from a dead start. Likewise, the smaller wheels on scooters help when cornering, and there is less gyroscopic effect. Also, those same smaller wheels allow for a lower center of gravity, which is a definite advantage. Another plus to the small wheel is the fact that you can have a spare attached to your bike in any number of locations. You can carry two if you like. Try that with a Harley. Lastly, you'll find smaller wheels much cheaper to replace. All in all, there are a lot of advantages to small wheels!

(Q.) High Octane Fuel Do I need the "Good" stuff?

(A.) A lot of people are tanking up with the "good" stuff because the commercials imply that it's better for their engine. When the oil companies use superlatives like "Super", "Extra" and "High"...well it must be better, right? And of course they wouldn't be charging $0.10 - $0.20 more unless they were putting some really good stuff in there, right? Sorry..."High Octane" is not synonymous with "good" or "better", and does not mean that it is better for your engine! And the chances are pretty good you don't need high octane fuel in your scooter. High-octane fuels only become necessary when your engine has a high compression ratio. It's a very long and complicated story…that I will make short. First important fact that you must accept: All gasoline, regardless of its' octane rating, have pretty much the same amount of energy per gallon. What!!! "Sacrilege" you say? Well, actually, some higher-octane fuels have a few LESS percent energy per gallon…so as not to argue over this small point, for the sake of this discussion we will all agree that the automotive gasoline that you buy at the pump, regardless of octane rating, has the same amount of potential energy. Second important fact that you must accept: Octane is NOT a measure of power but of the fuels' resistance to ignition from heat. A higher-octane fuel also, under identical combustion chamber conditions, will burn slower. How can this be? If all of the above is true, how do we get more power out of high octane gasoline? We do, don't we? Well…yes we do. Here's how: But first you must understand "heat of compression". There is a 2,000 year old fire starting device that still amazes me. A length of bamboo was hollowed out leaving one end capped. A stick, about the same length as the bamboo, was whittled down until it fit snugly into the bamboo cylinder. A bit of dried grass or wood shavings were placed in the bottom of the bamboo cylinder and the snugly fitting stick was violently rammed down the bamboo tube. The heat generated from rapidly compressing the air in the tube was sufficient to ignite the tinder. The same thing can happen in the cylinder of an engine. The piston, quickly squeezing the fuel/air mixture into a small space, can generate enough heat of compression to ignite the fuel well before the spark plug fires, with unpleasant results. If the fuel prematurely ignites while the piston is on its' way up, the burning of the fuel, in conjunction with the rising piston, creates even more pressure, resulting in a violent explosion. This explosion is equivalent to hitting the top of the piston with a very large hammer. If you want to be able to see through the top of your piston, ignore those sounds that are usually called: "pre-ignition", "ping" or "engine knock". What we really want is a very rapid burn of the fuel, not an explosion. And we want the burning of the fuel to take place while the piston is in a better position to convert this pressure into productive work, like on its' way down. Think of this burning as a very fast "push" on the top of the piston. Despite the violent noises you hear from some exhaust systems, it really is a rapid push on the top of the piston making the crankshaft go around, not explosions. So that we can ignite the fuel at exactly the right time with the spark plug, instead of from the heat of compression, they put stuff into gasoline to keep it from igniting prematurely. The more resistant the fuel is to ignition from the heat of compression, the higher its' octane rating. Are you with me so far? higher compression ratios = higher combustion chamber pressures = higher heat… and it is with these higher combustion chamber temperatures that the magic happens. At higher temperatures the fuel is burned more efficiently. So, while it's true that the higher-octane fuel does not posses any more energy than low octane fuel, the increased octane allows the extraction of more of the potential energy that has always been there. Conversely, lower compression ration engines utilize a little less of the fuel energy potential (2-4% reduction) but there is also less heat generated in the combustion process. So how do you know if you need high-octane fuel? I suggest you look in the owners' manual! Manufacturers really do want you to get the maximum efficiency out of your engine. They do their best to give a good balance between horsepower and engine life. It's in their best interests to do so. There is ABSOLUTELY NO BENEFIT to using a higher octane than your engine needs. The only benefit is increased profits to the oil companies that have cleverly convinced some of the public that their new "Super-Duper, Premium-High-Test, Clean-Burning, Used-By-Famous-Racing-Types-All-Around-The-World, Extra-Detergent-Laden-Keep-Your-Pipes-Clean, Extra-High-Octane" fuel is your engines' best friend. I am telling you the truth, don't listen to that talking cartoon car. I hear people insisting that they got better mileage, better acceleration, and less dental plaque by switching to a high-octane fuel. I like to remind these people that in every pharmacy is a special miracle pill that is often prescribed by doctors, it works wonders because people believe that it works wonders; it's called a "placebo". Never confuse faith with physics! If you are getting pinging or knocking with what should be the correct octane for your engine, start by checking the ignition timing, also check that the spark plug is the correct heat range. For 2-strokes, check for excessive carbon build-up on the top of the piston, the carbon takes up space and increases the compression ratio. If all is well and correct, and you still are getting knocking, then try the next higher octane. You won't go faster, you won't go farther, but you will prevent an unsightly hole in your piston.

(Q.) Air Cooled vs. Water Cooled Scooter Engines
(A.) We need to cool engines because they create heat during the combustion process. The more heat generated, the more difficult it becomes to get rid of that heat. As you raise compression ratios and run the engine at higher rpm's, at some point with an air-cooled engine, you just can't make the cooling fins any larger, can't fit any more on, and you can't blow enough air over those fins to get rid of the heat faster than it is being produced. This is when the dreaded "piston seizure" usually takes place. While most people believe that the welding of the piston to the cylinder wall was caused by excessive expansion of the piston (this too can happen), but it is usually the failure of the lubricant to keep the piston and rings separated from the cylinder. As the oil gets hotter it gets thinner, at some elevated temperature it stops being a lubricant...the lubricating film breaks down and the destructive metal to metal contact begins. Almost all air cooled engines have a considerable cooling safety factor built in. The designer of an air cooled engine makes allowances for long up-hill runs, hot days and even provides for some out-of-tune conditions. There is no reason to be wary of air cooled engines...unless you start doing things to your engine that start cutting into this safety margin. The makers of bolt-on performance equipment rely on this safety factor. Because, when their products squeeze more horsepower from your engine, they also generate a lot more heat. What some of these go-fast products do is take away any over-heat safety margin. If we fully understand what we might be getting into, OK... but I have never seen an advertisement for horsepower increasing products with the notification: "this equipment will probably shorten the life of your engine and also might lead to catastrophic failure, and by the way, good luck with your engine warranty" So when you see an air-cooled scooter engine putting out surprising horsepower, you are looking at an engine living a risky life in the fast lane.

So what about the water? At the very early stages of engine design, the engineer decides how much power he wants from a given displacement. He can play it safe, keep the compression ratio, (and a lot of other parameters) conservative, generate less heat and comfortably cool with air...or...make the decision to squeeze some more horsepower out of the engine. At some point they just can't put enough cooling fins on the engine and it's time to go to another way to move the heat away from the cylinder ... water. Water is a whole lot better at conducting heat than air. Have you ever seen a blacksmith drop a red-hot bar into a tub of water to cool it off quickly? Did you ever see him wave it around in the air to cool it off quickly? NO! The water does a much better job of conducting the heat. A pizza maker can put his entire arm into a pizza oven with air inside that is around 450 degrees F. He does not get burned immediately because the air is such a poor conductor of heat, it would take time to begin to cook his arm. Now, what would happen if he put his arm into water that is boiling (which is only 212 degrees F.) The results would be immediate and terrible. Yes, water is a better conductor of heat than air. So, the engine designer loses the fins and puts a watertight jacket around the head and cylinder to contain the water that will carry away the heat. The water is circulated through tubes in a loop from the cylinder to a radiator, where the water is cooled by... AIR!, then the cooled water is returned to the engine to pick up some more heat. After all this, the engine is still cooled by AIR? What's going on here? The water is the vehicle for carrying the heat from a place where the engine designer can't put enough cooling fins, to a place where he can put enough cooling fins. Looking closely at a radiator you will see many small tubes and thin fins. This gives a very large surface area exposed to the air, where the heat is carried away. As scooter designs become more sophisticated with tightly fitting body panels that restrict air flow to the engine and as riders demand more horsepower without increasing engine displacement (in some parts of the world you pay taxes base on displacement) you will begin to see more water cooled engines. So, if you have a water cooled engine, there's some more weight, and a few more components to check and care for. And, most importantly, keep that radiator free of bugs and debris because, after all, it's still an air cooled engine.

(Q.) How do scooters differ from motorcycles?

(A.) By definition, motorcycles are nearly any two-wheeled, motorized vehicle. Therefore, scooters are by definition simply a specific motorcycle design. This is why in most localities, there are no regulations for scooters per se, and thus scooters fall either under moped regulations (assuming they meet the proper requirements to do so) or by default, they are legally treated as motorcycles. There are a few localities that have specific regulations for scooters, but as these are extremely uncommon and follow no real pattern, they are not covered here. The reason that scooters are commonly not treated as equals in motorcycle circles is simply because they generally are slower and not as performance-oriented as their larger cousins. So technically, all scooters are motorcycles, though usually only scooters that more closely resemble what are more commonly called motorcycles will be referred to as such.

(Q.) How do scooters differ from mopeds?

(A.) It is a common mistake for people to confuse scooters and mopeds. In fact, many vehicles are BOTH. By legal definition, a "moped" is any two-wheeled vehicle of any design which meets local regulations that commonly relate to speed restriction. Commonly, mopeds may not exceed 30-35mph and still legally be considered mopeds. Confusion reigns, however, because some localities may require pedals, while others do not, and speed restrictions may vary from place to place. Further, a common moped design has been large, motorcycle-type wheels on vehicles that can commonly look very much like scooters, blurring the distinction. However, the term "moped" in any locality will always refer first to any vehicle that meets local regulations to such vehicles, and secondly to whatever designs people there may commonly associate with mopeds. Many speed-restricted scooters are legally marketed as mopeds, sometimes even with pedals (in places that require them). The overlap simply goes to body design with speed restrictions. It should be noted that most mopeds can be modified to exceed designed speed, in which case they are no longer legally mopeds, but motorcycles. If they have a scooter design, they will simply be faster scooters.

(Q.) Advantages of scooters over mopeds?

(A.) It has been noted elsewhere that many scooters are also legally considered mopeds. In all cases, this will mean they have engine sizes under 50cc. Traditionally, mopeds have typically had larger wheels and exposed engines, though obviously 50cc scooters would not have these attributes. The main advantage of the body panels is protection from the heat of the engine and exhaust. The smaller tires produce quicker handling response. And it's usually easier to change the tires on a scooter over a traditional moped, because many scooters have tires mounted on one side only, like auto tires. Of course, if the comparison is between a 50cc moped and a larger capacity scooter, the advantage of greater power will enable the rider to better maintain traffic speed and to stay out of trouble by accelerating out of it sometimes.

(Q.) What are the advantages of scooters?

(A.) Scooters originated very early on in the development of motorcycles generally to address problems that some felt were inherent to common motorcycle design. Foremost was covering of the engine compartment. This was done to avoid inadvertent contact with hot engine parts, which is a common concern for motorcyclists. This concern went further with the covering of the rest of the body, along with a front legshield, meant to protect the rider from mud, water and debris that might drift up from the road below. The common step-thru design initially was so ladies could wear dresses without compromising their modesty, but it has come to be welcomed because it allows the rider to sit on the seat much like a chair, instead of straddling the vehicle, as is common on motorcycles. This tends to be a more comfortable riding position and can be safer if the bike goes down unexpectedly. There is less chance of getting caught underneath the bike as with a standard mc design.
Further, the smaller wheels give faster turning response (which usually shocks first time riders used to larger wheels) and many scooter designs mount these smaller wheels on one side only, making removal extremely easy (unlike most motorcycle wheels) and making it feasible to carry a spare tire. The smaller tires also allow room so that under seat storage is possible. Scooters by their nature also have far more bodywork available for custom paint schemes, and therefore lend themselves more to personal expression in their customization. Scooters also typically are easier to learn to ride than many motorcycles and scooters often have a more acceptable social image.

(Q.) What are "classic" scooters?

(A.) The term "classic" scooter has been coined to differentiate the older, original scooter designs from those that developed later on in the 80s and 90s. Piaggio has produced its Vespa scooters since 1946 and the design has been endlessly copied by other makers right up to the present day. Likewise, other makers have copied Lambretta designs. There have also been a few innovative designs related to neither, but the vast majority of "classic" scooters are variations of a Vespa or Lambretta. Those that prefer this type will commonly point to the classic 50s and 60s styling, almost exclusive use of metal bodywork, extensive use of manual shifting mechanisms, kick starters, and typically older scooters, though these designs are still produced all over the world. Contrary to popular belief, even early Japanese scooter design followed the "classic" scheme, which is why 50s and 60s Japanese scooters by Fuji, Mitsubishi, Honda and Yamaha are all commonly accepted in classic scootering circles. Likewise, some "classic" scooters have automatic transmissions (e.g. Fuji Rabbit, Heinkel Tourist) and electric starters (e.g. some Vespa and Lambretta models).

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Motorcycle	=	Any two-wheeled vehicle
Motorscooter	=	A small motorcycle with a step-thru frame
Moped	=	A small motorcycle with pedal to help propel the bike
Kickscooter	=	A skateboard with handle bars

Class-	Full Motorcycle	A Motor-driven cycle	B Moped	C Motorized bicycle
Defined as-	Top Speed over 40 mph, Engine larger than 150cc	TS btw. 30 & 40 mph, Engine 50-150cc	TS btw. 20 & 30 mph, Engine under 50cc	TS under 20 mph, Engine under 50cc
License / Permit Required	Class Motorcycle Permit or Junior M/C Permit	Class MC Permit or Junior MC Permit	Any Class	Any Class
Registration Required?	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
Title Required?	Yes	No	No	No
Helmet & Eye Protection	Yes	Yes	Yes	No
May Operate On Any Traffic Lane?	Yes	Except Freeway	Right Lane / Shoulder Only	Right Lane / Shoulder Only
Insurance Required?	Yes	Yes	Yes	No
Inspection?	Yes	Yes	No	No

Class-	Motorcycle	Moped or Motorized Bicycle
Defined as-	Top Speed over 25 mph, Engine smaller than 50cc	TS under 25 mph
License / Permit Required?	Yes- Motorcycle Permit	Yes- Moped Permit
Registration Required?	Yes	Yes
Title Required?	Yes	Yes
Helmet & Eye Protection	Yes	Yes
May Operate On Any Traffic Lane?	Yes	Right Lane Only, No road divided by a median, esp. No Freeways or Roads with Posted Speed Limit over 50 mph
Insurance Required?	Yes	Yes
Inspection?	Yes	No

Class-	Motorcycle	Motor scooter "Motor-driven cycle"	Moped "Bicycle w/ helper motor"
Defined as-	Top Speed over 30 mph,150cc or Larger Engine	10" Wheels, 50-150cc Engine	TS under 30 mph, 50cc or smaller
License / Permit Required	Yes- Motorcycle Permit	Yes- Motorcycle Permit	Yes- Any Class
Registration Required?	Yes	Yes	No
Title Required?	Yes	Yes	No
Helmet & Eye Protection	Under 18 / Yes	Under 18 / Yes	No
May Operate On Any Traffic Lane?	Yes	No Freeways	No Freeways
Insurance Required?	Yes	Yes	Yes
Inspection?	Only for vehicle 10 years old or over	Same as MC	No